Day 3: Lighting Gear Week
Today we’re moving into the studio, and we’re starting with a lighting set-up that is ideal for:
- Product photography
- Portrait photography
- Studio photography of anything that doesn’t move a whole lot
- Anyone who wants to get into studio lighting, but is unsure, afraid, or uncomfortable with the whole studio lighting world.
I’m going to give you the same advice I’ve given to so many of my friends who wanted to get into studio lighting, but weren’t quite ready to deal with the complexity of using multiple strobes, wireless triggering, light meters, and all that it entails. Get a Westcott TD-5 Spyderlite.
These are continuous (”always on”) daylight-balanced lights that give you soft, wrapping light, but because they use fluorescent blubs, there’s no heat, so you can use them right up close for shooting everything from people to food. The TD5 is shown above, without a softbox, so you can see what the light itself looks like (photo courtesy of Westcott).Advantages:
- Since they’re always on, what you see is what you get. There’s no guesswork, no wondering if the light is going to fall where you want it–you see everything live just like it will look
- Since they’re daylight balanced, they look like natural window light.
- They’re surprisingly affordable
- You don’t need wireless triggers
- Since the light is continuous, you can shoot just like you were shooting in natural light, so for the most part you don’t need to use a lightmeter, like you do with strobes.
Disadvantages:
- They don’t put out nearly as much light as traditional studio strobes, so you’ll need to shoot on a tripod, and you want to avoid shooting objects that move a lot (so regular portraits, where your subject stays fairly still are no problem. Shooting toddlers, who are in constant motion, is another story, and you’ll wind up with some blur). However, you can raise your ISO to get a faster shutter speed and this limitation goes away, so if you’re shooting with today’s high-end Nikon or Canon gear, which both have very low noise, you can’t shoot toddlers all day.
- The other disadvantage vs. studio flash (strobes) is that there are only three power settings: low, medium, and high on the Spiderlites (I keep mine set on high all the time), whereas with a studio strobe you have much more control over their power output (brightness).
But if you do commercial photography (advertising, product shots, etc.) or portraits, it’s really hard to beat them. Note: I’ve been doing all my cookbook food shoots using Spiderlite TD-3 (TD-5’s smaller, lower-powered little brother), and it’s been absolutely ideal. BASIC KIT: To get started, I’d tell a friend that you’d need:
- One Westcott TD-5 Spiderlite
- A Medium (or Large) Softbox
- A Medium-sized Lightstand
- A Tilt-Bracket (so you can tilt the light)
- A 30″ Reflector, and boom arm stand (mentioned yesterday)
B&H Photo has a kit like this (but without the boom arm stand), for $530 (right now B&H is throwing in a free 30″ silver/gold reflector, but I have no idea how long this freebie will last—here’s the link). This DOES NOT include the five 30-watt fluorescent bulbs you’ll need (they’re sold in packs of three, so you’ll need two packs. They sell for $58 a set (here’s the link), and you’ll need two sets, so you’re at $646 for the kit and the bulbs.I would tell you to get that boom stand for the reflector (here’s the link), which will add another $80, taking you to a total of $726. Not bad for a studio kit, eh?If you want to take it up a notch, you can get the exact same Spiderlite kit I used on my nationwide Lightroom Live Tour, which comes with
- Two Spiderlite TD-5s (I use the other for a hair light, or kicker light)
- Two Medium Light Stands
- Two Softboxes: a nice big 36″x48″ softbox for the softest most wrapping light, and a 24″x32″ softbox you can use for a hairlight, or fill light, or whatever.
- A 5′x6′ Westcott Illuminator pop-up collapsible background (white on one side, black on the other).
- A background stand to hold that Illuminator background
B&H photo calls it “The Scott Kelby Studio Kit” (just a reminder: I don’t get a kick-back or commission on sales—B&H put this together as a courtesy to my students who saw me using this set-up on my tour and wanted the exact same kit). The kit goes for $1,099, but you’ll still need the bulbs, and for two lights you need 10 blubs, and as luck would have it, they come in packs of three, so you need four packs, so add $232 for the bulbs. Hey, think of it this way; you’ll have two back-ups. Here’s the link to the kit on B&H.I’ve recommended Spiderlites for the past year and I’ve gotten so many emails from people who’ve bought them who are just wild about them. For more info on them, visit Westcott’s site (here’s the link).Tomorrow, we’re taking it up a BIG notch; I’ve sold all my old strobes, got rid of all my existing softboxes, stands—you name it, and switched to an entirely new set-up for when I need strobes, and it absolutely rocks. It’s not cheap, but this is the real deal, and it can change the way you work with studio strobes in a big way. See you then!











Scott, this series is excellent and greatly helpful. It would be great if Mr. Hobby posted these on to the Strobist as well. His introductory section is much more like a Double black diamond than a bunny slope. This and of course your book really lay out the fundamentals.
Mark
See you in Orlando!
Scotty, these posts could not have come at a better time for me…thanks!
Also…that Nik Viveza ROCKS…only downside is I had just completely mastered masking/layers/painting with light and was so damn proud of myself….now it is all done for me!
Oh well…I’ll just “refocus”.
The Blurry One
Hi,
I use a D200 And a SB800, the manuals are really hard for me to figure out how to use these wireless.
Do you know of any tutorials to help me figure these out?
Thanks
Joseph
$726 for a one-light kit that you acknowledge is useless for toddlers and requires a tripod, and you call it “surprisingly affordable”?
Scott, please, wake up and smell the diaper pail. The most common reason for amateurs to buy studio lights is so they can take shots of their little kids. There are a multitude of monolights on the market that are not only much cheaper, but also much more useful.
Scott
If I wasn’t a paid up up member of NAPP I would feel guilty for reading your blogs. You have first class info in your blogs and it is most appreciated. You keep up the great blogs and I will keep paying my NAPP dues.
Scott,
Your columns on lighting are very interesting to me because I would like to get started with a makeshift studio set up. What gets me the most is your idiot proof approach that people like me need. My example is; “more control over their power output (brightness).” The definition of what you mean is vital to us beginners exactly the same that Joe uses in his new book, that is awsome by the way.
Thanks,
Mike
You can easily use these in a more dynamic setting as well. Just insert a Speedlite/SB/Quantum (”shoe” flash of you choice) into one of the holes provided for venting your softbox. This will add the “kick” to stop motion. I know there are strobe bulbs by Westcott that will work in these fixtures, however, if your buying studio lighting, you probably already own a hot shoe flash.
Scott,
Thanks so much for this series, it has been so helpful. I’m looking to do a lot of photography of toddlers/kids, since I have a 6 month old. If you would like to check out what I have done so far and would care to comment/critic go to http://www.coutoministries.com/blog . I was wondering if you have had any exposure to the Lastolite Hot Shoe EZYBOX Softbox Kit. I was thinking that this softbox and a lastolite trigrip 1-stop diffuser would be ideal. Right now I’m simply bouncing off the ceiling or a piece of poster board due to a limited budget.
Thanks for all that you do with NAPP,
Bruno
Thanks again.
Can anyone explain, what are the advantages of todays lighting over yesterdays which uses two flashes??
As much as I would like a studio I want to primarily focus on pictures of my baby and for that you mention that the spider is no good. What then is an affordable alternative?!
Thanks again! Anyone care to comment?
Thanks for posting the disadvantages on these lights. I first saw these in use with Monte Zucker and they worked very well for him with portrait lighting of still subjects. I had a chance to try them and found them very, very limiting: the light output is just not bright enough and as you pointed out there is very little control over it. As a professional photographer I needed more versatility and control over the light than what these provide, after all lighting is what photography is all about. This is the reason why there is a day 4 in this blog series: How to do it right!
Joe
I am loving the week of light, I’m deciding if I should get the 580EX II now, or wait for the next generation. I have a weak 420 right now, but I’m mostly doing landscape and I have a set of norman lights for portraits. But I know I need to get a better speedlight, and a new camera, and some filters. Oh well, I guess I’ll just get them all.
This has nothing to do with lighting, but I thought I could also share this:
This goes out to those that don’t know if they are left eyed or right eyed. Because you should really be taking pictures with your best eye.
To Test if you’re a right eye or left eyed person, simply do this:
1) Put the tips of your thumbs together and then the pointer fingers tips together and now relax your other fingers on top of each other… (The opening should look like a spade from a deck of cards) 2) With both eyes open focus on something in the distance (16-20 feet) like a lightswitch or a clock in that open spade… 3) Now close the right eye, 4) Open the right eye, and close the left eye.
Where does that object appear? In the right eye or the left eye? Which ever eye sees that object that means that’s the eye thats the strongest. Use that Eye!
-Dan Francis
http://www.danfrancisphotography.com/
I’m both in the market and very interested. I take larger group shots - say 6-8 folks, full length, usually with a 9′ wide background. Will two of these spiderlites cover this kind of area ?
Very cool stuff. Thanks Scott! Sure wish you’d get Mr. Hobby to do a Strobist clsss on Kelby Training. You Rock!
-Mark Feliciano
Dan,
I think that if you start with the suggestion that Scott gave on Monday, you will have a good starting point.
Basically you start with the hotshoe flash that goes with your camera system. The reason to go with the dedicated OEM model would be that it usually enables TTL flash metering, which means the camera does most (but not all) of the thinking for you with regards to exposure
Then as hotsshoe flashes are usually very light weight, you could find an inexpensive Travel Tripod with a three-way Pan and Tilt head which will give you the ability to directionally point the flash. B&H least expensive is around $15.
You will need something that will trip the flash when you will press the shutter, and wireless is ideal, especially if you are concerned with a toddler tripping on cords and pulling down your rig. If you do end up going with a sync cord, just remember that it will more than likely effect your cameras ability to work with TTL Flash Metering. Check your Camera manual to find out more.
As far as diffusion goes, if you are really on a tight budget, buy a length of clothes line, a white translucent shower curtain and a few clothes pins and string up the clothes line and pin the shower curtain there. Then shoot the flash through the curtain at your subject. It might take a little experimenting to figure our how many stops of light the curtain will eat up, but it should give you a nice diffuse effect. Just be careful not to get the sheet or line in your picture.
As for fill light, if you position your subject close to a white wall it will act as a reflector. Just remember that the white paint isn’t always pure white and could introduce a color cast to the fill. A piece of white foam core can do the trick pretty inexpensively as well. Also if you take aluminum foil and paste it to the opposite side of your white foam core, you have a silver reflector as well. I haven’t experimented with this, so I couldn’t tell you whether the shiny side or the dull side will work better as a reflector.
Also if you have read Scott’s photography books, probably the best light of all is indirect window light. You can use this as your main light and either use your foam core reflector for fill or you can experiment with using your flash to provide a pop of fill light. The nice thing about using the flash as a fill light is that if you set it at the correct angle, you should get a catch light in the eyes, which will really make a portrait come alive. Also if you only have a window with direct light, like a south facing window, you can use your shower curtain to diffuse the light. Don’t forget about taking photos outdoors in natural light and open shade using the flash for fill.
Good photography is about finding answers to problems that you need to solve. While the photo manufactures make some pretty great tools to help you with the solutions to these problems, it doesn’t mean that you can’t make some of your own equipment from items you have around the house. They may not be as convenient as the specially tailored products, but in photography, there are often many ways to skin the proverbial cat.
I’ve found that using plain old shop lights from Home Depot (with light modifiers of course) work very well, are cheap, rugged, and give great results. I started out using them for background fill on location and eventually they became one of my main lighting tools. Also mixing tungsten and flash can add some nice effects to your photos.
Finishing up my review of Nik’s Viveza today. Should be up next week over at DigitalMediaNet.com and then you can read if I liked it or not. Hehehe
Great post. I have been thinking of buyin one of this lights… I might see them next week at WPPA.
Paulo
Are Spiderlites dimmable? If they were, they could serve great double-duty for video as well.
Thanks for the lighting posts this week -
Great post! I’m saving to buy the TD5 kit myself. I personally think that if you’re serious about your photography that you should invest in both strobes and continuous. Sure the TD5 isn’t bright enough for active children, but the fact that you can also get the strobes for this unit or insert your own speedlight into it gives you the best of both worlds! That’s why I’m getting this kit. The continuous lights will teach me how my light falls on how I place it which will benefit me later when I need the strobe. Thanks Scott!
This is really off subject, but I’m sure that all of you D3 owners will be very interested in this one.
http://gizmodo.com/366845/5000-nikon-d3-dropped-15-feet-onto-concrete-on-camera
Gizmodo (Gizz-mo-do) is a great site for gadgets of all kind.
Scott,
There is one thing you did not mention on the downside for flourecent lights - their color spectrum.
As flourecent light is produced in a different way than halogen it has a different color spectrum of the light. Most flourecent tubes/bulbs found on the market today has peaks and/or dips in their color spectrum that makes it really hard to produce a picture without any colorcast. And by looking at the link to B&H it say that model and spec will vary with availability. So are there any chance you will get something you could go and buy in the supermarket yourself?
There are three things to watch for. The watt, if it is daylight and if it has a broad spectrum. So far, I have only seen the first two variables specified on the type of flourecent light that is displayed in your pictures.
If you look for normal flourecent tubes, you can go to a specialist electrical shop and ask for high frequency, daylight temperature, broad spectrum tubes. Chances are they will have to order it from their supplyer.
You might have all this well covered, but thought I would say something anyway
I follow your blog and the vidcast and enjoy it a lot!
Yeah, My question was on the Fluorescent Lights too. I really didn’t see a difference between Westcott bulb and this bulb on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Spiral-Medium-Standard-Maxlite-Light/dp/B00149L4GU
Is there really a difference between them that makes one $30 more expensive?
Great series of posts on lighting, thanks Scott!! I’m adding this to my favorite links for lighting tips. In fact I just added the blog to my RSS feeds.
I’d encourage anyone reading to also visit http://www.planetneil.com/tangents for a bunch of great lighting tutorials that really reinforce the same things you’ve said here.
Maggie
Scott,
I recently got the TD5 along with a reflector.
It seems that it is way too dark to shoot with my Canon EFS 17-85 IS (1:4-5.6) lens. In order to make it work I have to shoot at 5.6, 1/15 which are not “tact” sharp with my kids, tripod or not.
So I am forced to shoot with my 50mm 1.8 lens. I have been shooting with an f stop of 1.8 and a shutter speed of 1/125 at ISO 400. This turns out some pretty good shots but obviously I am very limited in how much I can get in focus.
Any tips on what I can do. I have been shooting with the TD5 a couple feet forward of the subjects on the left side, and the reflector on the right side.
By the way, I loved both of the Digital Photography books.
Thanks,
I’ve had good results with the Spiderlites, but they are hard to work with when photographing children. For portraits and still life, they are great, especially since they give off next to no heat. I bought my bulbs (with the same specs 5500K, 27 watts as the Westcott lights) at http://www.handhelditems.com/5500k-color-corrected-light-fluorescent-lamp-photo-bulb-p-5711.html for $6.99 each.
I haven’t checked the specs for the TD5 to see what the maximum wattage is for the bulbs. I see that http://www.obuynow.com/photobulbs.html has CFL bulbs listed of 40W and 80W power. I’d be interested to hear if anyone has tried these.
Scott,
On your March 6 post re getting the gritty look in Camera Raw/Bridge, you showed a photo of your band, onto which you applied the “look”. But then you said, “Here’s the problem; the effect in Camera Raw looked “OK†but it just wasn’t really looking right, so instead I ran the Lucis Art plug-in on it, and BAM—it was there! ”
I’ve since purchased Lucis Art, and as you know, it has a number of different effects. Could you tell me which of the specific effects you used, e.g., was it Exposure, and if so, what were you settings?
Thanks.
Yes, please respond to Craig Leonard’s comments above. I am looking at getting a TD 5 or portraits, but I am concerned about the limited lighting. I have a Canon 24-70mm L lens F2.8. Will the TD 5 work as a fill with a 580 EX flash or should I use the TD 5 and TD 3 in combination. What are my alternatives since I am on a limited budget. Thanks.
I shot with the canon 1d mark iii. I currently use flash / strobe and I am a bit scared to switch over to continious lighting. I borrowed a friends 2 light kit (each 1000watts) made by Amvona.com and even at 400 iso f2.8 and a shutter speed of 90 my photos still looked dark.
Is there a difference in brands when it comes to the quality and quanity of light…even when they both claim to be 1000 watt tungsten?
what should i shot at?
I purchased my spiderlight kit and installed them in my studio. They came very highly recomended by my local camera store. I wish I had checked out this website before spending 2000 dollars for lights that make me set my ISO high. It all sound great but just not worth it.