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Day 4: Lighting Gear Week

By Scott on Thursday, March 13th, 2008 at 2:51 am | updates.

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Yesterday we talked about my continuous lighting set-up, but today we’re moving onto pro-quality studio flash. Here’s the thing: I could spend the day talking about really low cost strobes, but when it comes to strobes, this is one area where buying the “good stuff” really pays off (I learned this the hard way).

Back in January of this year, I gave up on all my old studio gear (made up of a hodge-podge of Photogenic, White Lighting, and Profoto monobloc strobes, with a host of different sized Chimera softboxes), and I bought a whole new set-up from the ground up and it’s the best thing I ever did. So, before we go on I want to mention two important things:

  1. I’ve been reading your questions posted in the comments sections each day, and I’m hoping (focus on the word “hoping”) to be able to post an FAQ either tomorrow, or on Monday where I’ll try and answer as many of your questions as I can about the stuff I’ve talked about here on Lighting Gear Week.
  2. The set-up I’m about to tell you about is the exact same set-up I now use exclusively when I’m shooting in-studio strobes (tomorrow’s post is what I do for studio shoots on location), but this stuff ain’t cheap. Great equipment rarely is (although I think you’ll be surprised that it’s not as much as you might think). I recommended this same set-up to one of my very best friends a few weeks ago, he bought it, and you’ll read more about his experience later on. So, just so you know now; this is serious pro-quality gear, at pro quality prices, so go forward with that in mind.

Now, why aren’t I showing you a cheap studio strobe set-up? Because you wouldn’t thank me later. I’m giving you the same advice I would, and do, give my closest friends, and this is absolutely what I would tell them to get:

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  • Two (2) Elinchrom RX600 600-watt Monolight Strobes (the Monolight thing means they plug right into a wall socket like any other thing that runs on electricity). They are $978 each at B&H Photo (link) NOTE: There is a special reason why I chose these, and I’ll share that in a moment.
  • An Elinchrom 53″ Midi-Octa softbox (this will be your main light. It’s huge. It makes stunningly beautiful light. You will love it) It’s $308 at B&H (link) and includes the speed ring (the thingy that lets you attach the softbox to the your light). That’s the MidiOcta in use in the photo up top (photo by RC Concepcion)
  • An Elinchrom Rotalux 14″x35″ softbox (this is tall and thin like a striplight; and it makes a great hair light, kicker light, fill light, or even a good background light). It’s $198 at B&H (link) and includes the speed ring. By the way; one thing I dearly love about these softboxes is that they collapse like an umbrella for the storage with the speed ring still attached. A huge time (and pain in the butt) saver.
  • An Elinchrom Skyport RX Radio Slave System, which includes one transmitter and two RX receivers. This is what wirelessly triggers the strobes, and are a key piece of this set-up. They are why I stopped using other wireless flash triggers. In fact, these Skyports are so great, that I’m giving them, right here and now, my “Scott Thinks It’s Hot” Award (you’ll see why in a minute). The set, which powers both strobes wirelessly, is $260 (link).
  • Two Avenger A420 rolling 9′10″ light stands with Boom Arms added. This things are solid as a rock, handy as all get-out, they roll (rolling is big), and your back will thank you again and again. Don’t put great lights on crappy stands. It’s like putting WalMart tires on your Turbo Porsche. You have to buy the stand, then the boom arm separately. The stands ain’t cheap–they’re $180 for each stand (link to B&H), plus whatever the boom costs (you’ll have to ask B&H which boom arm you should get—I couldn’t figure out which ones we have, because I’m at home tonight). Technically, you could get away with one boom, and leave your main light on just the straight stand, but you’ll always secretly wish you had that 2nd boom, which comes in very handy.
  • A Reflector and boom arm holder (you can use the Westcott 30″ reflector I mentioned yesterday and the day before). You don’t need a fancy stand for this. However, since you’re “movin’ on up” you might consider a larger reflector (especially if you’re doing full length shots), like the Westcott Illuminator Collapsible 48″x72″ Silver/White reflector, for $105 (link).

So, before we go any further, let’s total up our gear:

For everything, except the Avenger lightstands and larger reflector and stand, the total for the two strobes, two softboxes, and Skyport triggers is $2,721 (that’s not that bad, for a kick-butt pro system).

Now that you know what it all is; why? Why did I buy this stuff (and what makes it so great)? I think Elinchrom makes an absolute top quality product, (just ask Joe McNally, who uses Elinchrom, and is actually the guy who turned me onto them in the first place), but they’re still at a realistic price. In fact, I’d say in price-to-quality ratio, they’re actually a real value. But that’s only part of the picture for me. What sold me was how this all works with the Skyports, and the free Skyport software.

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Skyports

When I first saw the Skyports, I was immediately drawn to their incredibly small size (about the size and weight of a box of matches). The Transmitter that sits on your hot shoe is only 1 inch high. 1″ inch! No more trying to see around the big transmitter sitting on top of my camera just to see my subject (you don’t realize how big those other transmitters are until you try a Skyport). The Skyports are so darn small, and so light, that everyone who sees them has to smile. But that’s not why I fell in love.

What made me fall in love with Skyport is:

  • The fact that with Elinchrom RX strobes, I can control the power of each strobe right from the transmitter on top of my camera. If I want the hair light down a half-a-stop, I can do it without leaving my camera position. If I want the background light brighter, it’s just two clicks.
  • I can turn on/off the modeling lights the same way; from right on that tiny transmitter
  • When you buy Skyports, you can also buy a USB key for your computer (it’s around $100), and then you can download this amazing software that lets you run your entire studio, all of your strobes, right from your computer (for Mac and PCs). It actually shows you a visual representation of the exact back of the RX strobes, right there on screen, but it’s live—you can move the sliders, turn on/off things, and do anything you could do on the strobe itself, from right on your computer screen. But this is just the tip of the iceberg of what this software will do (including memorizing and saving your set-ups, so when you come back to the studio a week later, it will automatically feed all the right settings into all your strobes). This “running your studio wirelessly” and by software, is the future of the efficient studio, and it will rock your world. (did I mention this amazing software is free! It’s FREE!)
  • The Skyports cost less than the PocketWizard Plus IIs I’ve been using, because they’re $189 each, and you would need three of them (one on your camera, and one on each of the strobes). That’s $567, vs. just $260 for the Skyport kit (one on your camera, and one on each of the strobes). Go to Elinchrom.com to learn more about the Skyports. You will dig them, big time.

Once I tried this whole thing out (skyports and RX strobes), at their booth at Imaging USA, I ordered this same kit right on the spot. Since then, I ordered one more RX-600 to use as a background light because I was getting tired of running back there and changing the power output all the time. (Note: While the Universal Skyport kits will trigger any flash units, to get the whole “Raise and lower the power/turn on/off the modeling lights thing, and use the cool software” you have to have Elinchrom RX strobes, and order the RX transmitter kit instead of the Universal kit).

True story: A few weeks ago I flew up to Detroit to spend a day with my buddy Terry White. We wound up in the studio, and Terry was really unhappy and frustrated with his el cheapo strobe system, and of course I teased him about it unmercifully. Terry called a day or two later and said he was sick of dealing with all his strobe issues, and would I recommend a really great pro set-up for him. I sent him a B&H wish list with the same exact things you see there (the same exact stuff I use myself), and Terry went right online and bought the whole system. He shot with it that weekend, and he had to call me in the middle of his shoot to thank me. His exact words here, “Dude, I had no idea that it would make as big a difference as it did.” He was absolutely thrilled, and has thanked me numerous times since then.

Now, I did the same thing for you. I put together a B&H Photo Wish List, with all that gear, with pricing, and direct links for more info, just to put it all in one place. Here’s the link to my Elinchrom Wish List. (I know many of you are probably tired of hearing me repeat this, but just so you know I don’t get a kick-back or commission or referral fee, etc. on anything you buy from Elinchrom or B&H).

That’s it for today folks–tune in tomorrow for my wrap-up, with location lighting using serious strobes. Don’t forget to bring your checkbook—location lighting makes this stuff look like a bargain. See you then!

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  1. #1

    Scott forgot to tell you that with NAPP membership you get free B&H shipping :-) … but i was wondering if that free shipping is also the case if you are a european NAPP member …

    bruno waes on March 13th, 2008 at 4:06 am
  2. #2

    thanks scott!
    as always, very good information.

    i wonder how you compare your lights to profoto gear. many international pros (who have worked with elinchrom gear for years and loved it) have switched to profoto gear lately. and if you’re on location and need to rent additional lights, profoto gear seams to be available in more places (i talk internationally).

    Stephan on March 13th, 2008 at 4:40 am
  3. #3

    Tomorrow is what I’ve been waiting for!

    Awesome job Scott!

    Rock on with your bad self :-)

    Crash on March 13th, 2008 at 4:45 am
  4. #4

    I’d echo Bruno’s query as to whether or not us European NAPP members get free shipping with B&H ;-)

    Can anyone shed any light on this?

    Ever hopeful!

    Rich

    Richard on March 13th, 2008 at 5:29 am
  5. #5

    Scott,

    If I’m not mistaken, in order to control the Skyport units from your PC or Mac, you need a USB transceiver, which adds about $100 to the cost of the package.

    Gary

    Gary K. Meyer on March 13th, 2008 at 5:43 am
  6. #6

    Thank you for a very good article, really enlightinging…
    I will probably never afford to buy this stuff (I’m not even upp to your entry level setup) but regarding the wishlist at B&H, shouldn’t it be two A420 Lightstands? Yes, I’m picky with details…
    /Thomas

    Thomas on March 13th, 2008 at 5:49 am
  7. #7

    Very interesting entry, Scott. It is nice to see what some of the ‘big boys’ use in studio. I watched Mark’s demo on Photoshop TV and found it very interesting.

    I am currently using two SP System Excalibur 3200’s w/ Wescot translucent brolly’s. They were given to me by my aunt. I can’t argue with the price (free, how’s that for budget?) and for what I’m doing right now, they work out great. Maybe if I start getting lots of studio requests (do mostly natural light photog), I can justify moving to a higher-end system.

    Sam on March 13th, 2008 at 6:01 am
  8. #8

    Scotty, you gonna cover backdrops/backgrounds?

    Ned Leary on March 13th, 2008 at 6:24 am
  9. #9

    HI, Scott, this topic couldn’t have come at a better time for me. After reading (many times) your 2 digital photography books and seeing your LR seminar, I maxed my credit card to get spiderlites for a basic portrait setup. Ordered a 7′ westcott octabank (since I wasn’t getting the elinchrome octa yet!) and though I originally asked for td5’s, the rep said I had to use a td3, and strobes would work in it too. Got the td3 harilight and backlight kits. Well, the td3’s don’t have near enough light for my portraits! Bought 4 pocket wizards and ordered strobe bulbs for the spiderlites. Now waiting for the strobe bulbs to come in, but worrying that I screwed up. Should I try to return everything for the Elinchrome setup? Should I trade for td5’s? Does westcott/b&h even do that? what a hassle to take it all down and ship back for sure. I feel terrible, my td3 constants don’t seem bright enough and now, hmm, maybe I should return the wizards for elinchrome transmitters? Am confused and panicking. My customers are waiting. help? advice? What am I doing wrong with my td3’s? Why do they sell them if not powerful enough? Or is it my softbox is just too big? Trying to do the most with my money to get started with portraits (and leaping dancers…I know I need strobes eventually for that)without wasting the cash on dumb/lesser quality equipment that will need to be replaced. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. thanks, A.Burns

    Angel Burns on March 13th, 2008 at 6:42 am
  10. #10

    I might be able to help with the european matter of p+p. I am also a european NAPP Member. For example, I was disappointed to find that my NAPP membership didnt gve me the discount for the Nik Software Viveza offer. I was offered a 5 Euro discount on the european price. Athough I bought it, as it was essential to my needs, there is a clear difference in the European market compared to your side of the pond.
    Finally, I recently purchaes some hardware accessories from B+H as I just could not get them in the UK. Recommended from Scott and Joe, excellent bit of kit, but postage cost more than the actual item. I have now concluded that if you want the good kit, want the professional approach to complete your individual tasks, then you have to foot the bill some how. Advertising costs in the european domain are, according to Adobe, more expensive than the USA.
    To conclude, it isn’t clear regarding the discounts for european customers of NAPP membership. I have looked and cannot see it. It is only when you get the the checkouts of the sites, you are informed of this and then hit the back button.
    I appreciate this is not Scott’s issue, however some support for european members by the NAPP President in offering discounts for membership numbers, would be, I am sure, a welcoming relief to us all.
    Kindest Regards

    Jason Swales on March 13th, 2008 at 7:06 am
  11. #11

    I think you can buy these cameras, you mentioned in the blog, at cheaper cost if you try any online comparison shopping center. I can suggest u for naaptol.com, where u can get the best quality cameras for shooting at the lowest cost as well as guarantee card

    Monty Alexander on March 13th, 2008 at 8:33 am
  12. #12

    Scott, you are a life saver. I’ve been pouring over the net, forums, blogs, NAAP, etc. for a couple of weeks looking for a good recommendation on a solid strobe setup. Everyone has this or that caveat. Thanks for your always forthcomming opinion and thoughts. Keep up the fantastic work!!

    Travis Jones on March 13th, 2008 at 8:38 am
  13. #13

    Scott, as usual, you rock! I think purchasing a strobe setup is one of the most daunting things a photographer has to face. Your advice makes it all the more easier…thanks so much.

    Scotty

    Scotty Graham on March 13th, 2008 at 9:43 am
  14. #14

    Hi Scott,

    Great series, thanks!

    I would be interested in hearing in more detail why you are more satisfied with the Elinchrom units vs the units you were using.

    Jim

    Jim Goshorn on March 13th, 2008 at 10:06 am
  15. #15

    Thanks Alessandro for yesterdays long reply to my comment… much appreciated…

    THANKS SO MUCH SCOTT! You’re unbelievable…

    Just wanted to mention a few quick points I hope you’ll be able to address in your FAQ:

    1. For an amateur/intermediate who doesn’t do photography as a business, which setup would you recommend for family portraits, and can the two sb800’s achieve the professional look that strobes achieve, or is there a noticeable difference?

    2. Backdrop recommendations. I notice you use paper, is that the best way to go (again for family portraits and kids who might run on them). And if setup is on a carpeted surface does that change anything?

    3. I’ve heard of people using gels to change the backdrop color, any hint on that?

    Thanks again for your amazing articles… You’re as good as you appear in your books!!!! Dan

    Thanks Alessandro Rosa for yesterday’s long reply….

    Dan on March 13th, 2008 at 10:45 am
  16. #16

    Hi Scott, Great information!
    One thing though: The next time you’re in Detroit, can you please let me know? I have a whole buncha books for you to sign. *wink wink, shove shove* :)

    Mark on March 13th, 2008 at 11:36 am
  17. #17

    Monolites vs. Power Packs
    I have used Dynalites for many years and really love them, except for one thing. The ability to control each head individually. Monolites make it much easier to get exactly the power you want from each head. The trade off is you sacrifice a bit. You need multiple power sources for the monolites and they are heavier which is a concern if you need to boom them out over a sweep table or other set. I have been contemplating the switch back over to something like this set-up for awhile. Especially since I think the Octa is the best softbox on the planet.

    Jim Gill on March 13th, 2008 at 11:43 am
  18. #18

    Scott,
    This lighting series has been the best thing I have ever read on the internet. ever. Thanks for taking the time to write this!

    - Dan

    Dan on March 13th, 2008 at 1:29 pm
  19. #19

    Scott,
    I am pleased to read that you will be answering some of the questions brought up in the “comments” area in a FAQ page.

    As a non-pro product photographer I am experienced with continous lighting only and not interested in switching to flash or strobe. I do want to upgrade my lighting equipment however, and will try the bulbs discussed in Wednesday’s page. After reading all comments, I think I will wait until some of the questions that others posted are (hopefully) answered.

    In particular:
    1. What about the bulbs sold on Amazon that appear to be equal to what you wrote about?

    2. What about the color problems mentioned? I always set a custom white balance with each shoot and never mix light sources, however, I use lots of neutral gray backgrounds and am having problems with color banding. Is it my technique, the bulbs, my lens (I have two), my camera settings, or are all of these potential problems? I use a Canon 40D with Canon lens.

    3. How does one of these bulbs compare in light output to one 250 w tungsten flood? I use two 250 and one 500 with a large white tent for much of my work. I always use a tripod and timer. Still, I prefer using a low ISO and not having to use long exposures, so I do need lots of light.

    Thanks for ALL of the excellent information.

    Carol

    Carol Holaday on March 13th, 2008 at 1:41 pm
  20. #20

    Ok, you’ve got my curiosity up. Can the Skyports totally replace the PWPs? I was ready to by the PWPs but now I’m rethinking my decision. BTW, I really enjoy your website. It is definitely one of my daily reads.

    Randy on March 13th, 2008 at 2:16 pm
  21. #21

    Scott, Thank you as always for the generousity of spirit that you have for educating us about the often confusing world of Photography equipment and technique. This has been a great series and I really appreciate the infromation on lighting. A lot of time is spent on the other aspects of photography and there are some really great books, but very few really good books on lighting. It seems to be the Coca-Cola secret formula of the photography world.

    My question is will the Skyport RX kit also work with Speedlite setups, either Canon or Nikon, like the Pocket Wizards will? If they do, will E(I)-TTL work with them?

    A note to the European Audience. Given the fact that the USD dollar has become the Peso of the First World and is in the WC compared to the Euro and the Pound, you may want to consider a trip to the great city of New York, where not only will you be welcomed by 8 Million of nicest people around, experience world famous sights and incredible restaurants, but you will get to go to the Mecca of the photo world, the B&H Retail store. Besides the same great discounts and the fact that you can avoid the shipping (you can probably arrange shipping yourself with a nearby Fedex for much less) you will be amazed by the sheer theatre of the store and also with Euros and Pounds, everything will seem like an even better bargain. Just check on the taxes and how your countries customs service will react to the thousands of $$$ of camera gear you are bringing into your home country.

    Dan, my pleasure. They aren’t the best of ideas, but with a little bit of practice you can get some great results. And if the lighting isn’t the greatest, Scott, Matt and Dave will teach you how to make it great in Photoshop!!!

    Alessandro Rosa on March 13th, 2008 at 3:07 pm
  22. #22

    @ Dan -

    1 - You can make two SB800s work very professionally. Check out Dave Black’s site to see what one guy can do with SB800s. http://www.daveblackphotography.com/

    2 - Backdrops - paper on carpet = not so good. Paper needs a hard surface under it or you will get all sorts of tears and wrinkles. You can put clear plexi over the paper but that’s another look and more $$$ and hassle. For families and kids, cloth of some kind, is best. There are many varieties of muslin available. Muslin is used because it’s a cheap fabric to produce, available in wide widths, and light weight.

    3 - Gels are more effective when used against a dark background. Black works amazingly well.

    @ Randy- by PWPs I assume you are referring to Pocket Wizard Plus’s? If you don’t have a meter or anything with built-in PW triggering then, yes, the Skyports can be a replacement. I’ve used them and they work well but I won’t give up my PWs because I have a Sekonic meter that has built-in triggering.

    @ Carol - if you are having color banding issues it might be due to the cycling of the bulbs. Some bulbs like fluorescents and metal halide cycle on and off 60 times a second and you may be catching them mid-cycle. This happens to a lot of sports photographers in gyms because many of the lights in gyms do the same thing. Left side of the photo is fine but right side is funky. Adjust your shutter speed if you can to see where it may clear up.

    TJ Asher on March 13th, 2008 at 3:19 pm
  23. #23

    Scott,

    Good series of lighting articles. I am set with the speedlights (SB800’s) and I have been wanting a good studio setup. The Elinchrom’s are just the ticket. I have a question about the RX600’s. Will they work with the Ranger battery packs for location work? On the website they mention total compatibility with the Digital power packs and Ranger RX packs. Is that true or am I misunderstanding that?

    Thanks,
    Tom

    Tom Marriage on March 13th, 2008 at 4:53 pm
  24. #24

    Hi Scott,

    These last few posts have been nothing short of AWESOME!!!!

    Thanks so much taking the time to write such indepth posts which quite clearly will be helping many.

    You’re the man!!!

    All the best,
    Glyn

    Glyn Dewis on March 13th, 2008 at 5:02 pm
  25. #25

    Hi Scott,

    Drrooooolllll…..
    Nice setup. I guess I need to find a second and third job now… :D

    To Bruno and Richard,
    AFAIK the free shipping from B&H and several of the other manufacturers on the NAPP member site is only offered within the United States.

    Jan Winther on March 13th, 2008 at 6:33 pm
  26. #26

    Scott,
    Thanks for the article - very interesting. The whole pro lighting kit is a little bit much for me right now, but I’m particularly interested in the Skyport system. I’ve been using PocketWizards for the last year (after taking one of David Hobby’s seminars) and love them. What I don’t love is the bulk when traveling to the field. The Skyports look compact, and I like that. Just a couple of questions:
    1. What is the range of the Skyports? I couldn’t find it on their webpage. PWs have really solid range (1000ft) which is pretty key for outdoor work and why I prefer them over the Nikon CLS.
    2. Do they offer any kind of triggering system for the actual camera like PWs have with their continuous metering cable add-on? I’m interested in using PWs to do some remote camera work.

    Otherwise, they look really good!

    Thanks again.

    Sterling Zumbrunn on March 13th, 2008 at 6:42 pm
  27. #27

    Scott– did you give up on the monster Octabank? I LOVE mine!!!

    ron on March 13th, 2008 at 7:42 pm
  28. #28

    Scott — that mcnally guy convinced me to get an elinchrom ranger pack and head setup… I found an old one on ebay and i love it. I know they are big bucks but I’ve never regretted it. I’ve often condisidered buying a second one. Your thoughts??

    Second question… have you used your elinchrom setup in conjunction with SB-800? How? I used to have D2x and the manual said not to use the PC port and the flash foot at the same time… but didn’t say why. So I ended up using the SB’s in slave mode (SU-4), and loosing the CLS and the at-camera management of them. Does the skyport setup help in a mixed environment like this?

    thanks man! You rock!

    ron on March 13th, 2008 at 7:49 pm
  29. #29

    Scott… Nice posts this week.

    After reading your post and some of the questions regarding the Elinchrom lights, I thought I would throw in some support for these lights.

    3 years ago, I purchased 8 600RX units to shoot Arena Football. At the time, I was strongly considering buying a much cheaper monolight made of many colors. The price was over double for the Elinchrom units, but 3 years later, I am glad I spent the extra money.

    A good friend of mine is a photographer for Sports Illustrated, and he was really digging on these lights at the time. For those of you interested in shooting sports, you will have no problem stopping the action, as the flash duration is about 1/2000 of a second. In addition, Elinchrom has the best reflector selections available.

    At GA Tech last year, I had 4 of these lights installed in the Catwalk for shooting basketball. Each and every game, my action was frozen with very few frames showing any sort of motion blur. Another photographer had the colored monolights right next to mine and his frames never compared, as the majority of his shots had motion blur with an exposure that was 1 stop of light less at the court. I was close to 4 stops over ambient, and he was about 2.5 to 3. In addition, his lights lit up the whole arena, stands and all, where mine lit up mostly the court.

    Aside from shooting sports, these lights are awesome in the studio and on location. I have used mine for shooting NFL and MLB headshots, portraits, team photos, modeling and catalog photography. Never have I found myself needing more power. To be be hones, I did find myself needing less at times… so out comes the ND filter.

    The 1/10 of a stop increments in exposure really allow you to dial in the perfect exposure, and the color temperature on my lights has been very consistent.

    Just last month, I had to shoot the Braves 2008 Merchandise Catalog at Spring Traning in Orlando, Florida. At the time, I contemplated buying a Ranger, as this is something that I have always wanted. However, trying to budget my expenses and not blow the bank every time I turn around, I began checking on a rechargable system that would allow me to use my 600 RX lights.

    After a lot of checking and talking, I decided to try the new Alien Bee Vega Bond II… Alien Bees guaranteed that the VB II would power the 600RX flawlessly, and in comparison to the Dynalite Power Supply and the Ranger Kit, the price was well worth the try. However, if I have to be honest, as I headed to Florida for my shoot, I a very bad feeling that I would be ordering a Ranger Kit next day air. Nonetheless, for the difference in price, it was a chance I was willing to take.

    On our first day, I was blown away… I was able to shoot 2 players and 2 models on 1 Vega Bond powering (2) 600RX units. This was a shooting time from 7AM to 4 PM. This unit powered nearly 1000 frames at a speedy recycle time of about 1-2 seconds, depending on the power I was running. Never once did it show sighs of running our of power. The second day of the shoot was just as impressive, as I fired off even more shots with the exact same results. The Braves were happy, the models were happy and I was happy that I got to wait a little longer on buying the Ranger kit.

    For those of you looking for a system that will allow you to shoot on location, I would offer that the Vega Bond II is worth a try. It is ugly and if compared closely, it is not a Ranger. If money is no object or if you are shooting on location for big bucks every day, then the Ranger is definitely the way to go for your location lighting.

    For any of you looking to buy some used Photoflex 5′ octadomes or 7′ octadomes, give me a shout. I have 2 of each that I am selling as the result of buying the Elinchrom boxes earlier this month. They are in great shape and I do not need two sets. Feel free to contact me with any questions.

    Paul Abell on March 14th, 2008 at 12:23 am
  30. #30

    Scott — You’re becoming the Martha Stewart of the photography world. Take this as a compliment… from a guy who has appeared on her TV show. Really practical info for the masses. Thanks for putting it all out here. Ciao!

    Syl Arena on March 14th, 2008 at 11:09 am
  31. #31

    What were some of the difficulties you had with the lower cost strobes? I’m a student and I’ve been considering a cheaper system like the AlienBees. Thanks.

    Dan Bobrowsky on March 14th, 2008 at 2:57 pm
  32. #32

    Scott: If you ever figure out which boom arms you have, please add it to your B&H wishlist. Thanks!

    Charles on March 14th, 2008 at 3:02 pm
  33. #33

    The Style 600RXs are great lights, it’s the label on the side that puts me off, the font and graphic design on there is so bad.

    Graham Wallis on March 14th, 2008 at 4:15 pm
  34. #34

    I just received my skyports and I am very disappointed. I bought the universal set with an additional three receivers. I expected to plug and play but they do not include a pc sync cord for my 580exII. Its a good thing I ordered one hot shoe sync cord but that was for my 430ex.

    Super Bummed

    Chad Banning on March 14th, 2008 at 8:53 pm
  35. #35

    Question:
    What light meter can work wirelessly with the skyports? You recommend a Seconic light meter to go with the Pocket Wizards in you book The Digital Photography Book 2. However I cannot find a compatible light meter for the skyports. Do you have a solution to my unbearable agony? :)

    Daniel on March 15th, 2008 at 11:35 am
  36. #36

    Scott hi,

    Love reading your blog…tell me which strobe would you recommend using inside of a lastolite hilite…I’ve just ordered one but I need a strobe strong enough to fill it the inside of it…

    drazen on March 16th, 2008 at 9:28 am
  37. #37

    Wonderful blogpost!
    I just ordered the Elinchrom Octa Midi today. I think (hope) it’s good value compared to, for instance, the full 74″ Octa, which is a lot more expensive alternative to an amateur like me.
    Any idea how the Skyports function with 400FX? Amazed to hear how they functions with the RX series! :-)

    Christian on April 16th, 2008 at 3:25 pm
  38. #38

    Skyports are interchangeable. RX receivers are for the RX units only. The RX Transmitter however will fire any Skyport receiver.

    That’s the real beauty of the Skyport system it’s totally backwards compatible with other heads/flash guns. I’m getting a rig with the Skyport RX that’s going to be using a blend of 400BXs and 300RXs. The 300RX will be used for when the lights are to be placed in awkward positions such as hairlights or octabanks.

    Scottie on April 26th, 2008 at 3:08 am

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