Studio Strobes vs. Small Off-Camera Flashes
I finally got around to covering a question that I get asked so often from readers here on the blog, and that is:
“What is the difference between off camera flash (like a Nikon SB-800 or SB-900, or a Canon 580 EXII), and a Studio Strobe?“
If I have time, I sometimes answer people back with a direct email, but I’ve gotten this question so many times, I haven’t been able to answer them all. So, I thought I’d put together an example to show you my typical response to the question, which is purely my own opinion on the subject.
What I usually say is something along the lines of:
“Whether you use a small off-camera flash, or a studio strobe, what you get is a bright flash of white light aiming toward your subject.”
I know that sounds pretty simplistic, but that’s what it is. For example, two of the shots below were taken with a Studio Strobe with a small softbox, and one was taken with a Nikon SB-800 with the same small softbox.
First, see if you can tell which one of the three photos above was taken with the SB-800 (by the way; I know the shots themselves, which are unretouched right out of the camera) are kinda lame, but try to get past that part and just focus on the light). Now, choose which one you think it is in the poll listed below. If you get it wrong; don’t feel bad. Joe McNally was in my office the day I shot it, and I asked Joe to tell me which one he thought was which.
He studied them for a few moments, and said something very telling; he said “The fact that it’s taking me a minute to figure out which one is which, says something, doesn’t it?” That’s the whole point right there! If you have to think for a few moments, the difference isn’t that obvious. Anyway, not surprisingly, Joe did get it right first time, but he too commented on how slight the difference was, and I agreed. It’s not “night and day.” It’s a subtle difference.
So, if the quality of light is at least somewhat similar (as long as you do something to diffuse it, like adding a softbox or shooting through a diffuser), then what are the advantages and disadvantages to using one over the other? (By the way, the correct answer is “The One On The Right”).
Here’s my short list of pluses and minuses:
Studio Strobes: Advantages
- These are generally much more powerful than off camera flashes like the SB-800, 900 or Canon 580 EX II), so they can throw a lot more light when you need it.
- They were made to have softboxes attached, so you don’t have to have special adapters, specially made softboxes, etc.
- They come with continuous modeling-lights built-in. These help you see your subject, they help your camera’s auto-focus lock on (try focusing in the dark), and they give you a preview of how the shadows are going to fall on your subject.
- Since they plug into the wall, they recycle very quickly, and so you can fire off lots of consecutive shots (great for shooting fashion, or kids), without waiting for the flash to recycle, which is something you always have to do with off-camera flash.
- They don’t use batteries, so you can fire the strobes without ever worrying about the batteries dying, or the power of the flash changing as the batteries wear down during your shoot.
- They have a light stand mount built-in, so mounting them on a light stand doesn’t take any special adapters.
- There are lots of accessories like reflectors, grid spots, barn doors, etc. that are made for use with strobes.
Studio Strobes: Disadvantages
- You have to plug-them in (though for some you can have a separate battery pack for on-location shooting, but these packs are fairly expensive, and like any battery—they run out of juice)
- You can’t just toss one in your camera bag—-they’re too big, so they usually need separate protective cases to go outside your studio.
- Although most decent strobes are fairly rugged, at certain points in the process, the flash bulb is exposed (like when you’re changing a soft box), so you have to take a certain amount of care not to break the flash bulb, especially if you’re shipping it for a location shoot.
- These require a wireless transmitter and receiver to fire them wirelessly.
- Good strobes are fairly expensive (though I think the new Elinchrom BXRi 500s are a steal at their price of around $600 each, with built-in wireless receivers).
- You’re not mounting one of these on your camera’s hot-shoe.
Off Camera Flash: Advantages
- They are small, lightweight, and you can mount them right on your camera’s hotshoe
- They are battery powered, so you don’t have to have access to an electrical plug to make them work, so they’re ideal for shooting outdoors, in a church for weddings, at the beach, or anywhere that “plugging-in” doesn’t make sense.
- You can fit one easily in most regular camera bags, so your flash is always with you.
- You can set them to be wireless, so there are no cables to deal with.
- The transmitter and receiver to be wireless are already built in (in most cases) so you don’t have to buy them separately.
- A really great off-camera flash is usually cheaper than a really great Studio Strobe.
- You can carry a bunch of these in a very small travel case.
- These were made for location shoots, and that’s where they really shine (though they work fine in the studio, because after all—like a studio strobe; they produce a bright flash of light aiming at your subject.
- You can place these little suckers about anywhere—inside a car, inside a box, down on the ground, up in a tree, hanging from a handrail, etc., which gives you incredible flexibility about where you place your light.
Off Camera Flash: Disadvantages
- They’re not generally nearly as powerful as a studio strobe (though you can buy some high-powered off-camera flashes, like a Quantum Q-Flash).
- There is no modeling light in most cases, so they don’t help with seeing your subject, auto focus, or getting a preview of how your lighting will look.
- They need fresh batteries a lot.
- There aren’t nearly as many softboxes or accessories available for off camera flash (although new stuff is showing up much more frequently now than ever).
- You can’t fire the strobe as rapidly because they recycle slower than most studio strobes.
- You need a special adapter to put one of these on a lightstand.
- You need to have an accessory of some sort to soften and diffuse the light.
So which one should you use?
Well, here’s the thing; It depends on what you’re shooting, and what your budget is. If you primarily shoot on-location, then you’ll probably want an off-camera wireless flash. You can use these in the studio, too, and they’re not crazy expensive.
If you want to do just studio work, get a studio strobe called a Monoblock (or a monolight), which means it plugs right into the wall. You can buy some really inexpensive ones these days, but with stuff out like the Elinchrom BXRI’s, you can now get a really good strobe for near the cost of an off-camera flash.
If you need to do both: lots of studio work but occasionally some location work, you have two choices:
- Just use all off-camera flash. They work in the studio and out in the field (but know the limitations I mentioned above).
- Buy a studio strobe that uses a battery pack. That way you have the advantage of studio lighting on location. However, this is a fairly expensive way to go.
OK, so how does the pricing compare? Let’s take a look at two set-ups that I use myself:
Off Camera Flash (for Nikon Users):
Two (2) Nikon SB-900s off-camera flashes ($450 each)
Two (2) Bogen light stands ($56.50 each)
Two (2) Lastolite EZ-Boxes with light stand adapters ($164 each)
One (1) Smith-Victor carrying case for lightstands ($37.50)
————-
TOTAL: $1,411.50 (B&H Price)
NOTE: If you have a Nikon D3, D3X, the new D-5000, or any lower-end model without a built-in commander unit, you will need an SU-800 Commander Unit to control your wireless flashes, which would be an additional $249, or you could buy another SB-900 flash, but a commander is much cheaper.
UPDATED TOTAL: $1,660.50 (with Commander unit)
Off Camera Flash (for Canon Users):
Two (2) Canon 580 EX II off-camera flashes ($420 each)
Two (2) Bogen light stands ($56.50 each)
Two (2) Lastolite EZ-Boxes with light stand adapters ($164 each)
One (1) Smith Vector carrying case for lightstands ($37.50)
——–
TOTAL: $1,315.50
NOTE: To fire your wireless Canon flash you need either another Canon Flash unit, but it’s cheaper to buy their ST-ET Transmitter, which adds an additional $220.
——–
UPDATED TOTAL: $1535.50* (with transmitter)
(Note: you could save some money on either system by buying a cheaper light stand, a cheaper softbox—or maybe even a shoot-thru umbrella to cut the cost more significantly, but what I broke down here is pretty much the rig I use myself).
Studio Strobes
Two (2) Elinchrom BXRI 500s studio strobes
Two (2) Bogen Lightstands
Two 26″x26″ Softboxes
Two Carrying Cases (one for strobes, one for light stands)
Wireless Transmitter (the wireless receivers are built into the strobes in these models).
TOTAL: $1,550 (B&H Kit Price for everything above)
(Note: you can buy cheaper strobe kits than this, but this is what I would recommend to a friend. A good quality strobe is like a great lens. It makes a difference).
I think the most surprising thing here is that the price difference between off-camera flash and the studio flash is not all that big. So, it really comes down to what kind of stuff will you be shooting; where you’ll be shooting it, and which type of system suits your (wait for it….wait for it….) personal preference. At the end of the day, that’s what it eventually come down to. Which set-up appeals the most to you.
I’m sure we’ll have people arguing back and forth to make the case that their way is “better,” but the bottom line is; they both will do the job. They both create bright flashes of light that aim at your subject. You just have to decide, for your type of work, which one works best, because the quality of light isn’t so much going to be determined by the flash or strobe itself; it will be determined by what you use to diffuse it, and where you choose to position it once diffused.
I think the cool thing is; we have some really great choices. We have great gear available today, that’s becoming more affordable, with great accessories that make our job easier, that are powerful, flexible, rugged, and a lot of fun to use. .





















Okay. So I failed your poll. I initially picked the right one, but then I second guessed myself by saying that would be too obvious.
Anyway. When I started out, do studio stuff, I made my home/basement studio entirely from SB-800s. It was great. They did what I needed, and I could take them on location. Now, I have real studio lights, and some portable power just in case, but I can really do what I need with those speedlights.
Thanks a lot for the explaination….it is of gr8 help…
btw….is that hard shadow under the nose a giveaway to what was used….just curious
Absolutely couldn’t agree more. I chose the strobes because they are best for my style. As one can see, by the time you buy all the stuff needed to make either of them most useful, the cost balances out to be about the same. One limitation with small flashes is that I don’t think you can put one in a 6-foot Octabank and get the same big light look. Maybe two would do the trick but not sure.
Very well put… great post!
I hope you can do a piece on new diffusion products for off camera flash… as you say, there is a lot of new stuff. But it’s not well organized in one place when you’re looking to buy something.
best wishes
I ended up getting both, and now I’m in debt.
Good analysis Scott, but if you buy second hand strobes like the Nikon SB26, 28, 80, etc then the economics swings pretty dramatically in favour of speedlights, especially as an entry level proposition. I am in Australia, which is a curse in terms of supply and exchange rate, but I would estimate that so far my rig has cost maybe US$1,150, for three strobes, although I only have one proper light stand.
Still, just using your suggested kit, if I swap out two new SB900’s ($900) and add back two used SB’s (Say $250), then I have $650 to spend on pizza and beer (or that 70-200 f2.8…)
Thanks, Scott. Great post….very informative!!
Ok stupid question (perhaps I missed it in the post), but do studio strobes do i-TTL adjustments for their power, or is power strictly set by the photographer manually? It is somewhat scary that speed lights have gone up in price so much.
No TTL. Manual setup….
Well, since I got your poll right, I decided I was ready for the next step and placed my order with B&H. Seriously, Scott, thanks for all that you do to make the learning process so much easier. And faster. You’ve been a terrific help the past couple of years, and I appreciate it. I always start my day with a cup of tea and reading your blogs, and I enjoy every one.
Great post Scott!
I decided on Saturday to see just how much power my studio flash has (Elinchrom RX with A head) 1pm on a beautiful sunny day — hot boring light, bad for photography. Could I dial down the ambient 1pm sunshine – and light just with a flash?
The result: http://galleries.ronhiner.com/temp/_rwh0049.jpg
1/250 @ f22 / Iso 200 — and the flash was still putting out more power than I needed.
My mind is now racing with possibilities. With small flash, you work with ambient light — loving it, caressing it, and supplement it. With studio flash, even at 1pm on a sunny afternoon, you can practically ignore ambient light if you are willing to stop down enough.
Hi Ron,
The inverse is also true with your Ranger RX Speed AS. Putting the head into the B port drops the power by 2/3rd’s. It may be the only pack on the market that can go from a full 1100 watt seconds all the way down to 8 watt seconds. Pretty neat.
great post and thanks for summarizing everything including the costs! i will definitely go back to this post when i end up buying more flashes or strobes.
Thanks for the info on this Scott. I’ve ended up on the Speedlight side because of the portability of them but I’ve always wondered what life was like on the other side. It’s nice to see a side by side comparison. I don’t feel like I’m missing out now (aka, I can’t blame the gear for my bad photography).
I ran across an SB800 last night online, from a lower cost supplier in NYC, and it was $799.95 for one! I’m probably missing something but is it that big of a deal to go into the SB900 menu and disable the thermal cut off?
Regards,
Wade
I just update the firmware and it stop overheating, but under some circumstances it still overheat (direct sun and firing lots of 1/1 flashes)
?
I flunked the poll, second guessed myself. I initially noticed the quicker fall-off (less wrap) of the one on the right, but I was looking at the shine on her forehead and voted for the one on the left, thinking that was the lower powered light. I guess I need to read The Hot Shoe Diaries one more time.
Great post, Scott !
I too have both systems , for studio and on location shoots, and I love them both for their advantages on each situation.
The only thing I missed in your post was about flash duration. This is something I found myself considering when I wanted to do some higher speed photography, and found out there is a significant difference between both systems.
On a separate note, do you have any updates on the progress of the Kenya’s orphanage building? I hope they are doing well.
Cheers,
Ana
Great post Scott. I’ve always had this question lingering in the back of my head for some time now, and its nice to see a detailed breakdown comparison between the two methods. For now, I think I’ll stick with my SB-800 speedlight setup.
“What is the difference between off camera flash (like a Nikon SB-800 or SB-900, or a Canon 580 EXII), and a Studio Strobe?“
That’s easy! One cost more. One weights more. One can output more watt seconds. One recycles faster. One might be able to support a larger soft box etc. IOW, light is light. What would make someone think a bigger studio strobe would, using the appropriate watt seconds for the desired exposure, stuff between the light source and model not withstanding, make a difference?
Its like those that say “the light in Santa Fe is so beautiful”. I live in Santa Fe and it is. But its beautiful in S. California when you look for it. Its the same sun guys! The atmosphere, what filters the light, the time of day, that all plays a role.
Did anyone really expect that a small strobe, properly setup would be inferior?
What’s the difference between running Photoshop on a laptop and a desktop? Is there a reason why we’d use a Laptop (or small camera strobe) instead of a big powerful desktop? Yes there is. But when rubber hits the road, if you alter the RGB numbers on each the same, the net results are the same.
Andrew,
What did you hope to accomplish with your comment other than to say Hey everybody, look at me. I’m smart too.
Amen Silvio!!! Finally, some one said it!!!
Hi Scott – Another blog post topic for your reflections: when do you opt to use your Westcott constant lights (TD-5s) rather than strobes (of either flavor)? What are the driving factors when you make that decision?
I’d be interested in this as well. I use my Spiderlites a lot for studio work, but I always wonder about it.
Hi Scott,
Do you really use the 15″ x 15″ EZ-Boxes that you provided the link to? Wouldn’t a 24 x 24″ be a better balance between portability and size? If you only were to purchase one size (which is my situation) which size would you get?
Thanks,
David
Good question, if you go for the speedlight option, presumably you go for portability and speed of use, hence the 15X15 rather than the 24X24. I know the 24X24 has an additional diffuser to spread the flash wider and more evenly, you could go for a shoot thru umbrella (quick to put up but less directional) – but I guess SK will be able to give chapter and verse on this one.
Another advantage for the studio strobe modeling light vs. the speedlight is the model’s pupil size. The studio strobe w/ modeling light constricts the pupil showing more of the eye color whereas the speedlights are not able to do this in a dark environment like a studio or even some on location places like dark churches. I would like to hear of some work arounds for this issue if anyone has the time.
Have you tried a small flashlight? I have one that’s shaped like a gun with a trigger that’s easy to turn on and off. Saw it on David Ziser’s website.
You are really having a blast with this lighting thing!!
Just curious what specifically would push the BXRi recommendation over the entry level D-lite? Aside from the nominal difference in power, and the BXRi is listed as having a much faster recycle time. Is that the kicker?
Quality….
Care to expand upon that for the uninitiated? The price differential isn’t huge, so I’m curious as to the magnitude of difference in “quality”. Is there a “can’t live without” feature that shows up in the BXRi that missed the cut on the D-lites?
Put me down as a three-solution guy. I have a cheapo set of strobes that I ordered off ebay, a set of Spiderlite TD5s and TD3s and a SB-600 and a SB-900 (or will have when it comes in this week). The strobes have been a pain in the rear (misfirings and non-firings, breakers tripping, etc.) but I think that’s more a function of their cheapness than anything else. The TD5s and TD3s are great, but the gear bag for them is heavy and they take a while to put up and tear down, so they are not a great solution for location stuff. That’s why I’ve ordered the 900 to go with my 600. Those two guys plus a little slave flash and a tungsten flashlight (and stands, umbrellas, monopods, etc.) give me a very light and portable location kit.
Hi Scott,
It’s actually called a ST-E2, but since you are a Nikon guy we can forgive you.
B&H also makes a kit with two 580 EXII’s and a ST-E2 already. Click here to see it.
On a separate note, you didn’t mention that the light stands need cold shoe adapters (and possibly umbrella adapter). Which do you recommend? I haven’t found any that I’m thrilled with yet.
Thanks,
Ron
Wow… great post. I may actually end up purchasing the new BX500ri kit to supplement my Hensels. Do you recommend any battery pack to use these on location?
What do I win for guessing right? Nice informative post!
-Bob
(Boston)
It was hard to tell, but then looking at the white shirt, you could tell the difference between the 3. The first two had a consistent white tone, while the right one has a yellowish tone. You tried to confuse us by moving her hair in the left image.
Very useful description and explanation, Scott; thank you!
Balliolman,
England.
Quote: Josh G: “I ended up getting both, and now I’m in debt.”
Wow, that was hilarious. Not because of you misfortune Josh, but because I’m about to knowingly do the same thing. LOL!!! That Elinchrom kit looks awful good. Besides the speedlite thing is really getting out of hand. I’ve seen SB 800s listed for $600 – $700, c’mon thats rediculous. Also, no one mentioned shooting an automobile or light a church for a wedding with SB-800s.
I can’t believe no one has said why the one on the right looks like it was taken with a speedlight. It’s the inverse-square law, aka light fall-off. The speedlight is smaller and less powerful, and can therefore not illuminate as big of a modifier (softbox, etc). So you have the choice of not softening the light as much, or pulling the modifier closer to the subject so it seems larger to the subject (light can hit them from a great number of angles aka “wrap”). A closer light-source will fall off more quickly from light to shadow – the short explanation is because the difference between 2 feet and 3 feet is 150%, and the difference between 10 feet and 11 feet is 110%, even though both are only the distance from the light collar-bone to the dark shoulder.
A speedlight can easily fill a softbox of that size. The box could be in precisely the same location as it was for the studio strobes.
I’m not going to vote, I’m too focused on her tan lines.
Scott Kelby just made me pervert of the year
Scott. I’m interested to know what you think about the Lastolite EZ-Boxes v. the Westcott Mini Apollo. What made you choose one over the other as a portable solution? Thanks. Sam
I am interested in the new Elinchrom Monolights. I do want to use tem on-location, but is there a portable power system compatible that would would work available? Are these lights capable of the same power manipulation via computer control like it’s bigger siblings?
Thanks!!!
Hi Scott,
Thanks for the comparison. Very helpful! And I loved the Photoshop Creative Tour I went to, I learned alot.
My question is can you get some sort of adapter so that you can use your old Q-flash or Sunpak 120 J on your digital camera. I understand the voltage is too strong for the digital cameras, but it would be nice if there was some way I could use them! Thanks!
Sarah
Sarah, perhaps you could use them remote with something like the Cactus slaves http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,514.html. You probably want them off the camera anyway.
Thanks Bill, a brilliant idea!
Sarah
Sarah – Zach Arias uses a Sunpak 120J with a Nikon digital camera in his One Light DVD. He uses it off camera and triggers with Pocket Wizards.
Hi Les,
Thank you for the info, I’ll check it out. Brilliant idea!
Sarah
Great article. This is basically the setup I use. I stick with studio strobes for in studio or on location work where I know power can be easily found. For anything else, I rely on my SB-800 and two SB-80DX’s. Works like a charm.
Oh, and I guessed the correct photo, but it took a little study. Even then it was by chance.
Another comment – for me, iTTL (Nikon CLS, Canon e-TTL) makes speedlights much more attractive. Manually tweaking the power of each light over and over gets really tiring. I know there are plenty of negatives to speedlights, but to me iTTL outweights them.
Nice comparison. How about your thoughts on a related issue, strobes vs. Spider lights. I like the idea of Spider lights for the WYSIWYG factor, it seems to make more sense than strobes.
Scott, thanks for the great post! For me personally, I do almost all my work on location in the great out of doors so I use Nikon SB-800s and SB-900s…love Nikon’s CLS…it works amazingly and has never failed me, Brad
Scott,
On the blog you linked the Lastolite Hot Shoe EZYBOX Softbox 15 X 15. Can you use the 24X24 softbox and will the flash have the capacity to fill the box in most uses? Which do you use…., and given a choice for soft enveloping light which size whould you choose?
thanks in advance,steve
“
Excellent article. I have to comment that I think your price comparison is a bit disingenuous, though as there are many low cost options available to get into the world of hotshoe flashes. For example, the Vivitar 285HV is available for $90 and the new LumoPro LP120 is available for $130. Cactus wireless triggers are $25/piece. That cuts the price almost in half.
It took all but what 4 hours for the Elinchrom/500 kit to sell out at B&H. Wow!!!!
Thanks for this writeup. Just this past weekend I did hours of research on the different kinds of lights I needed for the different kind of photography I planned to pursue for what I planned to attribute my budget to. Your article does a very good job of summarizing everything that was in my head. Another great article and an excellent resource.
Scott:
I don’t know. SB900 for near $500? I think the strobist movement has over inflated the value of these units. I agree that either setup will get you what you want, so price matters. If I can kill the sun with a big, lightning spitting, monster strobe for the same price as a plastic flashlight it gives me pause.
@Shane A – maybe SB25s, SB28s are available in Australia, but not so much here. After the success of David Hobby’s great website, and Scott’s additions, these second hand lesser flashes are crazy expensive for what you get. I expect Nikon will take advantage of us SB600 users too when Pocket Wizard releases it’s new Nikon compatible TTL wireless units. I’m sure their prices will quickly follow the SB800’s (what is left of them) straight up into SB900 territory. I’m just thankful I bought my two SB800’s back before Nikon caught on. Holding on to my SB600’s too for when the PW comes on line.
Two pieces of plastic with batteries turn out to be more expensive than my pro glass. I never would have guessed it 5 years ago. Hell, one year ago.
Tim
Hey Scott, I wrote some of my thoughts on your post, and linked to you from my blog but no trackback appears. Do they need to be approved? I figured wordpress to wordpress would set up those things automatically.
Thanks for this review, I have asked this question many times and now I know what’s best for me.
I picked the right image and I was right!!!
The diference between the images is that on the right picture the background is darker than the others, mainly because of the less powerful strobe/smaller area of light, causing less light to bounce on the room.
Very good post, by the way.
I got the right pic and it took less than a minute. Didn’t use the background trick like DoctorBeat but use the same principle – lightfalloff/which least lit up the face. Took less than a minute to see that the face is less lit up across on the right pic vs. the other two/light falls off quicker on the right side of the right pic. But as Scott says, the difference isn’t much – maybe 10-15% difference.
I would also add to the Nikon gear two of either
Nikon SD-9 Battery Pack for SB-900 Speedlight
[$199.95 x2] (http://bit.ly/ngpg4)
OR
Nikon SD-8aBattery Pack for SB-900/SB-800 Speedlight
[$139.95 x2] (http://bit.ly/8sWdR)
for quicker flash recycling times and longer battery life.
This was a really interesting poll, Scott. Looking at the pictures, I noticed that the picture on the right had the most hot spots, especially on the model’s face, and more defined shadows. The picture on the left was the best of all three I thought because the lighting was more evenly distributed and softer overall. Personally, when taking portrait photos for reference for oil paintings, I really cringe when I get pictures that have hot spots. Thanks for the poll!
Susan
Over at “Raisin Toast”
http://raisintoast.typepad.com
FYI, the link to the Two (2) Bogen light stands point to a discontinued model:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/512196-REG/Manfrotto_by_Bogen_Imaging_001B_001B_3353_3373_Nano.html
the point to a different one that is 6′4″:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/612771-REG/Manfrotto_by_Bogen_Imaging_001B_001B_3353_3373_Nano.html
Just catching up on blogs now, but the thing that caught my eye was the harsher shadows and faster falloff (less wrapping) of the right image. The darker shadows of her collar bone stood out.
Perhaps that’s from the flash being more directional in the soft box and producing a smaller, less uneven lightsource??
Other than that detail, I wouldn’t have noticed and just shows the “who cares” point very well!!