I Really Need Your Input
Apr. 30
1:41 am
Hi gang:
Next week I’ll be wrapping up writing Volume 3 of my book, “The Digital Photography Book,” and while I still have the chance I wanted to ask you if there were any particular topics, subjects, or techniques you wanted me to cover in this new book.
Now, before you get involved, there are three things you should know:
- This book picks up right where Volume 2 left off, so there are chapters that focus on the next level of studio stuff, and the next things you need to know about small off-camera flash, and there are chapters on shooting landscapes & travel, how to photograph children, how to shoot Sports, a chapter on lenses, a chapter on composition, one on just how to take better photos, a chapter on shooting products, and of course, my photo recipes (how to get this type of shot). So, keep those in mind, because those topics are already in the new book.
- Below I’ve posted the table of contents for Volumes 1 and Volumes 2 (two completely different books), so before you post an idea, could you take a quick look there first and see if it’s already been covered in one of the first two books.
- If I wind up using one of your ideas in Volume 3, I’ll give you your choice of: My new “Photoshop CS4 Book for Digital Photographers,” my “Lightroom 2 Book for Digital Photographers,” or my soon-to-be-released book, “Photoshop Down & Dirty Tricks.” Again, your choice if I use your tip (and I’ll let you know here on the blog right away).
So, that’s the scoop. I really appreciate the thought you guys put into this, and as you’ve seen, I really take your ideas to heart, and often right straight to paper, so I offer my thanks in advance. Now, here (below) are the Vol. 1 and Vol.2 TOCs (click on them for a larger view):
Scott:
Anything you can include about shooting subjects in heavy back light situations woudl be helpful.
Also how about a section on posing groups (teams, families, etc.) where the number of subjects makes triangles and angles hard to achieve.
Good luck.
John from Cincinnati
Scott:
I have been interested for some time now in the art of photographing lightning. There isn’t alot of information that I have found to be helpful. Some lightning storms will be close ,some distant. so some step-by-steps and hints would be great.
Thanks,
David from North Carolina
Hey Scott
Really enjoyed your 1st book and going back to it from time to time
Things that I want to suggest for a 3rd one :
1) How to maximize usage of post space or composing for a square
What I mean is a lot of professionals on http://www.photodom.com where
I post use a square format of posted works
2) Shooting 3-dimensional Portraits
Here are several professional examples of what I mean
http://www.photodom.com/photo/1261670
http://www.photodom.com/photo/1332668
These are portraits shot outdoors that include some kind of
perspective in their composition, that adds depth.
3) How to create High-Key & Low-Key kinds of shots and good examples of both
4) Using cheap prime lens – When I tried Nikkor 50 F1.8
after one year of using kit lens (18-135 with my Nikon D80) –
a whole new horizon had opened for me
The sharpness of images is awesome
Thanks, for that opportunity and I am looking forward for
next books from you !
Have a good time, writing it – and we certainly will put them for
a good usage !
Alex.
I’d love to see a chapter devoted to getting the best possible shots in low light situations where one is forced to shoot with the natural light. For example I shoot my daughter on stage. The question I’d love to see discussed is just how much can you compensate in the lightroom for what you could not do on location? And what to do on location to maximize the potential of ending up with the best possible photo.
Hey Scott,
How about shooting in tricky light situations like concerts, pageants, clubs, theater and the likes?
I have the boxed set of your didgital photography series and it has helped more than any photography classes I have taken. Walmart & Walgreens won’t print my pics anymore because they insist they are copyrighted. I am just an amateur, but your books have helped me so much maybe i’ll be a pro before long. I love the way you write with humor. I have 4 of your photoshop books also. Keep writing and I’ll keep buying and getting better.
Hi there!
What about a chapter on the most common issues and errors of composition and framing by amateur photografers?
And more…
How to frame buildings and architectural subjects.
What to include and what not to include.
People or not people.
How to become invisible when shooting around with a full gear setup.
Hi Scott
Bore Da (that’s “hello” in Welsh!)
Love the first two books.
Would like to see some more stuff in volume three on shooting buildings – interiors and exteriors, especially in relation to nailing the exposure for rooms without blowing out windows.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks
Steve in Wales, UK
Hi Scott
Adding to what you have already written you could include sections with the following:
1. Breathing technique for handheld shooting (optimizing for sharpness). I use a technique used in rifle shooting where you hold your breath and very, very subtly trigger the shutter release – all within one second. When you hold your breath you have a little less that a second where your heart actually stops pumping, giving you that crucial steadiness for ultrasharp pictures. (ps. I do stock photography for iStockphoto.com, and they are very specific about tack sharpness).
2. “Visual check”, where ones does not rely on the autofocus (even 1-piont) but always do a visual check. This ofcourse is most relevant in close-up portraits and macro shooting, as you cannot really do a visual check in eg landscape.
3. Another trick for perfect composition I have learned from my mentor Yuri Arcurs, the bestselling microstock photographer in the world, is a trick where you make the model look at your fingertip and then you move your hand to excactly where you want your model to look. This also works wonders when shooting kids – especially groups.
Regards,
Daniel Laflor
The easiest methods for assessing color tempatures of ambient light sources for the practical and creative use of color gels with our strobes.
Thank you!
Rick
hey, what’s your e-mail address, i want to send something…
I really like like volumes 1 and 2 of the Digital Photography Book. Lately I’ve jotted down one tip (from either book) on an index card to work on when I go on photo junkets. Thanks for such useful and easy to incorporate hints!
One thing I’d like to see for volume 3 is a cheap and cheerful guide to gear for those of us on a budget. You’ve mentioned some inexpensive pieces of gear in the previous volumes, but it would be nice to learn more. For example, if your budget doesn’t accomodate and L series Canon lens, what is a less expensive (or inexpensive) alternative?
Thanks again for sharing such useful information!
I would realy love to see a “How to Shoot Wildlife Like a Pro” or “How to Shoot Birds Like a Pro” of course with a camera only….
What about describing equipment you would buy given different budget ranges? If you had $1000 to spend on camera equipment, what would you buy? What about $2000, $5000, $10000, etc. I am not looking for specific vendors but rather the approach you would use.
I am presently using a Nikon D40 with the kit lens, plus the 1.8 50mm (yes, even without being able to auto-focus) and a 50-200 mm VR lens (it was around $250). So clearly I have been working with a fairly limited budget.
Over time I’d like to start improving what I have. Should I next focus on getting a better camera (Personally I like to be able to auto-focus the non-AF-S lenses and I miss bracketing, plus as I do more prints I’m starting to wonder whether I want more than 6 MP). Or should I invest in a nice lens? I got to play with a 70 – 200 mm VR lens and it was amazing!
So I figure other people have similar questions. Where do you start out and how might you move up? I realize there are many angles to this question but I’d love to see the different answers.
Scott -
I’d love to see something more on lighting ratios and how to think. I’ve read all of Joe’s stuff and understand most of it. However, I think there is a need for a little more basic but well beyond how the equipment works. I need to know how to think like a light
I’m not a professional. I have a SB800 and SB600. How do I best use the two for a portrait or what other creative things can I do.
Thanks for being you.
You’re awesome!
It would be good to let people know what to do — and avoid– if they accidentally delete pics from a memory card (or if they accidentally format the card). This happened to a relative of mine while he was on a photographic safari in Africa. Fortunately, I was able to get word to him about how software could restore the pics IF he didn’t continue to write to the card.
How about something related to security, protecting your gear and how to insure your gear?
I’m just seeing this post and with hopes that it’s not too late, I’d like to suggest:
1) Some basic tips for working with gels… kind of a “Color Theory 101″ Crash Course
2) Tips for TTL metering, especially for those of us that have not yet invested in a hand-held meter. (i.e. best mode to meter in -p/a/s/m; what part of subject to meter off of if a neutral gray or gray card is not available; which meter made to use – spot/matrix/center-wt.)
3) Basic tips on exposure – I know this is a loaded subject that’s inspired many books, but just some quick tips/suggestions to ensure better exposure even without a handheld meter.
4) Elaborate a little more on Main Light placement (specifically continuous light w/ a softbox, but can address w/ strobe as well) – I’ve heard that a softbox is typically just out of frame but if it to either side of you/the camera, it won’t be ‘just inches’ from the subject. Hope that makes sense!
Thanks for imparting so much knowledge on us through your books, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed all that I’ve learned thus far and continue to look forward to more!
Scott – you are the master! I have both of your first books and use them quite often. I’m so excited you’re coming out with volume 3. I would really like to see how to shoot building with varying lenses. I had an opportunity to shoot some while I was on a trip for work – some of the the perspective is odd and I’m not sure how to correct that.
Hi Scott, I love your books! I have the boxed set Digital Photography ones, as well as Lightroom 2 and Elements 5. I am starting to use off camera flash (580exII on camera, optically triggering 2sb80dx’s) . I was hoping you could cover the use of shoot-thru umbrellas with the off-camera flashes in your next book. On another topic, maybe you could cover photography portfolio websites and printing (color profiles, monitor calibration etc).
Thanks!
Why in thunder did Adobe build so much functional overlap between Bridge, Photoshop and Lightroom 2. The user interface for Bridge is not user-friendly (maybe its even user-surly) and the user interface for Lightroom 2 is much superior and does so much of the function of Photoshop CS4. I can find no reference to answer my question, even in your book “Lightroom 2 book for digital photographers”
I agree with William.
Hi Scott,
I just read your Digital Photography book, and have a question. Although I’d love the glass (haha) you recommend for my Canon EOS (EF 24-70mm f/2.8), it’s a bit expensive and I’m not a pro. I was looking at some reviews and came across the following. Do you recommend either, or could your recommend a less expensive one that the EF24?
Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4.5 DC Macro (($340)
Canon EF 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 ($230) and
Tamron AF 28-77 f/2.8 XR DiLD Aspherical IF ($390)
I was leaning toward the Sigma. What do you recommend?
Thanks,
Jeanie
Scott,
I have both books #1 and #2. I would like to see more info on macro shooting, with help on choosing higher end macro equipment. I would also like to see more on telephoto techniques with emphasis on fast moving wildlife. I am having a problem with the latter. I have a Canon 50D with the 17-85mm and 70-300mm DO. I also have a Gitzo tripod with the Really Right Stuff Ballhead. Thanks and I will be preordering #3.
Bob
Scott! – a big fan, here – thanks for doing all the technical work so we can just play in the sandbox with our art. Is there (don’t laugh!) a way to batch the filename printed on a 4×6 proof for client ordering? I am going nuts trying to do this as I am ‘action’ challenged anyway!!
Thanks, jk
The tip should be discussed briefly…when using Photoshop and soft proofing and chose ICC print profile for whatever stock paper, I think that would be very wise for you to discuss the importance of color management – in particular with a calibration hardware such as X-Rite ColorMunki Photo. And explain why it is so important to have correct calibrated monitor. If not calibrated, all photos being edited not properly and printed wrong all the way.
There is also some tip and insight related to soft proofing. I know that lot of people didn’t realize that soft proof in Photoshop “assume” daylight. So make people be aware of it.
BTW, I love your books, including first and second volume. Also member of NPPA.
How about a chapter on HDR that an amateur like me can understand.
Your 1st two books are great, looking forward to the 3rd.
This is my first post and I don’t know if this is the right place for my question. However, here goes.
In “The Digital Photography Book, Vol II” (page 13) you address “dragging the shutter”. However you do not provide the camera settings for taking the initial EV. I assume that you are saying that the camera is set for flash and that the flash is in front sync mode. Is that right? If so, I understand why one would need to open up a couple of stops to light the background. However if the initial EV is taken either without the flash engaged or if the flash is set in rear sync mode I do not think one would usually have to open up the EV at all. In circumstances like you describe, I use rear sync mode and, usually, can use the EV the camera provides when the reading is taken with the flash turned on and in rear sync mode.
Related question: I believe that the use of rear sync mode produces the same result as using manual mode as you describe in the book. If any adjustments to the EV need to be made, I make them by using exposure compensation. Is there any reason to use the manual mode instead of the method I am using? Any comments or advice will be appreciated.
Two ideas..
1) How to shoot Weather (Rain/Snow/Sun/Hail/Wind.. etc)
2) How to shoot when on vacation with Family (quick, no wait, family photos)
Thanks Scott!
Hi Scott,
I have vol. 1 & 2… , I love ‘em. Straight forward, informative, informal. I like the positive attitude you have and that you instill… An inspiraion. Considering coming to Ireland and or the UK anytime soon for workshops?
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David Pearson says:
July 27, 2009 at 3:47 pmScott:
I have been interested for some time now in the art of photographing lightning. There isn’t alot of information that I have found to be helpful. Some lightning storms will be close ,some distant. so some step-by-steps and hints would be great.
Thanks,
David from North Carolina
i have just finished reading books one and two but i would have appreciated some quick notes somewhere because i cant remember all the settings you said and i have to guess and hope i have remembered right i cant take your book out with me on trips it is too big a set of little notecards would be perfect or a quick table at the back with the main points to remember from each subject thankyou for listening and your advice so far
If you could add a few bullet points or small comments to the
side of the page with the focus being, “If you had three
minutes to prepare for the shot, do this, this, and that…”
thus reinforcing what the photographer should be thinking.
Because of the complex nature of photography sometimes
too many variables can confuse/overwhelm you, however,
with your brief comment or note, this would clear it up. Thanks!
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